People might say this small coastal town, tucked between rugged cliffs and tall pines, rests in a quiet region often overshadowed by enormous cities and popular tourist spots farther south. Today, as I plan a short trip to Cambria, I think this stereotype is a very, very good thing. Being out-of-the-way isn’t always bad.
On the drive north, the occasional traffic is like me, in a slow mood, enjoying the sights. It is sparse enough that I know my mid-week visit will offer a solo trek on the beach. It’s a brisk morning, with the sun rising over coastal hills and the air tinged with salt. Once in Cambria, you can pick up American Volkssport maps for a donation at the Bluebird Inn which guide walkers along 5- and 10-K paths. Today, I park at the north edge of town and head out. Let’s walk!
Across the Pacific Coast Highway, old-growth trees define the area. Towering Monterey pines stretch toward the sky and drip with moss. The trees are ancient guardians, their bark gnarled and twisted. Walking beneath their shade, the light filters through the canopy above in soft rays. Then the forest gives way to the coastal boardwalk trail.
The Pacific Ocean stretches out to the west, endless and hypnotic. The sound of the waves crashing against the rocky shore keeps a rhythm, and I match my step to nature’s music. The temperature drops as warm air from the hillside air mixes with the ocean wind. My footsteps are hollow pats against the wooden boardwalk. Cambria’s coast is filled with surprises: sudden cliffs, hidden coves. Then comes Moonstone Beach.
If you must choose one calm place to walk in Cambria, choose Moonstone Beach. The boardwalk continues north here, making the trek easy on the feet. I can take in the atmosphere, not struggle with a challenging workout. Moonstones, smooth rocks that shimmer in the sunlight, might tempt me to pick up a few, but I am here to witness the look of a scattering of shining rocks, not to claim more for my collection. The beach is nearly empty, with only a few people strolling along the shore. I take off my shoes, leave the wooden ease of the boardwalk and join them for a while, letting my feet sink into the sand with each step.
As I walk today, a small group of sea otters plays in the water near the rocks. Their sleek bodies glide through the current. The scene is tranquil, but also full of life, as if Cambria’s quiet beauty contains also hidden wonders waiting to be discovered. Though the sand pulls, I am glad it’s not a strenuous walk today. It’s enough to simply enjoy the rhythm of the waves and the patter of my steps as I retreat to the boardwalk.
I return to town, the sun climbing higher, as the streets of Cambria host visitors, like me, stepping out onto the sidewalks for a stroll. I stop in the tea shop and the apothecary, the garden store and the sandwich shop. There are many local businesses to choose from.
Cambria is a place that gracefully brings together sea and land. I can walk for hours, but the time seems to slip away unnoticed. Here, I find a quiet relief from the busy Californian stereotype of the hustle and complexity of its mostly urban style of life. Here is a place where the world feels a little more in tune and my footsteps make a little more sense.
Susan Vasquez 